What's in a Prague street name

Every street in Prague, one by one.

  • Originally published on X on 15 June 2024. ‘Nábřeží’ = ‘Embankment’.

    Ludvík Svoboda was born in Hroznatín, a village in Vysocina Region, in 1895. His father died a year later (apparently after being kicked by a horse), and his mother remarried in 1898.

    He attended the Agricultural School in Velké Meziříčí, and was then called up to the Austro-Hungarian Army in 1915. He was captured in Ternopil, and trained as part of the fire brigade of the city of Kyiv.

    In 1916, he enrolled in the Czechoslovak Legion, and, in 1917, took part in the Battle of Zborov (https://whatsinapraguestreetname.com/2022/12/04/prague-3-day-111-pod-vitkovem/).

    He then took part in the battles for the Trans-Siberian Railway (see https://whatsinapraguestreetname.com/2024/09/12/prague-1-day-90-most-legii-legion-bridge/), and, when Russia became communist, was one of the soldiers stuck a long way from home.

    His journey home – once Czechoslovakia had become independent – therefore had to go via Japan, the Pacific, the Panama Canal, and the United States.

    Initially taking over the family farm, Svoboda was soon remobilised in reaction to events in Hungary (in 1921, Charles I, the last Emperor of Austria-Hungary (pictured), made two attempts to retake the Hungarian throne).

    Svoboda married Irena Stratilová (pictured in her future First Lady days) in 1923, and, in the same year, joined the 36th regiment in Uzhhorod (then still in Czechoslovakia) as a staff captain. He would stay there for eight years.

    Afterwards, he was moved to Hranice, where he taught Hungarian at the Military Academy for three years, and, in 1934, was promoted to lieutenant colonel, and moved to the Jan Žižka 3rd Regiment in Kroměříž, which he had already served in from 1921-3.

    Being promoted to commander of the reserve battalion, this obviously became a bigger deal as war once again loomed. After the Nazis occupied Bohemia and Moravia in March 1939, Svoboda started to work for the Czech resistance.

    He managed to get to Poland, where he formed a Czechoslovak unit in Kraków, transferring 700 men to the Soviet Union when Nazi Germany invaded Poland in September. In the USSR, they were confined to Czechoslovak-adminstered camps.

    In July 1941 – a month after Germany had invaded the USSR – renewed diplomatic relations meant that the Soviets allowed formation of a Czechoslovak military unit on their territory.

    In January 1942, Svoboda became deputy commander of the 1st Czechoslovak Independent Infantry Battalion.

    Leaving for the front in the autumn, it first saw military action in March 1943 in Sokolovo, near Kharkiv.

    Their success in slowing down the German forces led to the formation of the 1st Czechoslovak Independent Infantry Brigade, commanded by Svoboda. It fought hard on the Voronezh Front, and also participated in the Battle of Kyiv (November 1943).

    In 1944, the Brigade was converted into an army corps; under Svoboda’s command, the corps took the Dukla pass and entered Czechoslovakian territory – which Svoboda had not been on since 1939.

    In April 1945, the Communists set up a government in Košice; Svoboda was appointed Minister of National Defence. He then became Minister of Defence after the Prague Uprising and the reestablishment of Czechoslovakia.

    In 1948, nearly the entire non-Communist part of the cabinet resigned in protest against the policies of Klement Gottwald; Svoboda, formerly seen as apolitical, did not. After the February coup, he joined the Communist Party.

    Svoboda became Deputy PM in 1950, but was dismissed the following year as part of the purges of the time. He was sent to run a farm, then to prison; released after Stalin’s death, he was chosen (apparently by Khrushchev) to lead the Klement Gottwald Military Academy.

    In March 1968, at the height of the Prague Spring, Alexander Dubček nominated Svoboda to replace Antonín Novotný as President of Czechoslovakia. As a war hero who had been punished during the purges, society viewed him relatively favourably.

    However, when Warsaw Pact forces invaded in August, Svoboda was one of those forced to sign the Moscow Protocols, which ended the Prague Spring and the liberalisation of society, which now got delayed by over two decades.

    In increasingly poor health, Svoboda resigned in 1975 and died in 1979.

    He believed that his actions in signing the Moscow Protocols prevented thousands of people from suffering much, much more than they would have done had he refused.

    Whether this was true or not, Svoboda’s lack of hardline communist learnings – and his past as a war hero – are surely why this embankment didn’t undergo a swift name change in 1990; indeed, he is still an honorary citizen of Prague, Plzeň, Brno and Ostrava.

    Nice views too.

    Before we go (yes, this was another long one), we’ve got to give a special mention to the Ministry of Transport, originally (1927-32) built for the Czechoslovak Ministry of Railways (it still hosts the HQ of České Dráhy too).

    It was here, on the night of 20/21 August 1968, that the Central Committee of the Communist Party of the Czech Republic found out that Warsaw Pact forces had invaded, and issued a declaration rejecting this invasion.

    Also on the embankment, the Ministry of Agriculture was built in 1928 in neo-Classicist style; it’s quite imposing, but lacks the ‘quirks’ of the two ministries to its west (the Ministry for Industry and Trade was covered in several recent threads).

    There’s something outside the Ministry that’s worth noting – but that’s on a different street, and, therefore, for a future post.

  • Originally published on X on 14 June 2024.

    Vojtěch Lanna was born in Čtyři Dvory, now part of České Budějovice, in 1805. He was the son of a shipmaster.

    When he was sixteen, he moved to Prague to study mechanical engineering at what is now ČVUT (the Czech Technical University).

    However, he was expelled for misbehaviour, and returned to České Budějovice, where he got a job as part of the crew for boats transporting salt between Budějovice and Týn nad Vltavou. His father also taught him shipbuilding.

    In 1825, Lanna became authorised to manage river shipments, and also travelled to Hamburg by boat.

    Upon his father’s death in 1828, he inherited the family business, which branched out into shipping wood and graphite as well as salt.

    He also leased horse-drawn carriages between Linz and České Budějovice – continental Europe’s second-ever public railway line – which meant he could import salt from Austria.

    In 1832, Lanna married Filipina Peithnerová; when she died eighteen months later, he married her sister, Josefina.

    Around this time, Lanna also leased all water structures on the Vltava between Budějovice and Prague; soon, the stretch of the river where he was in charge of construction and maintenance of buildings extended all the way to Saxony.

    In 1835, Lanna, who was aware that it’s a good idea to know the right people, had a monumental gate built next to his shipyard in tribute to Emperor Ferdinand I, who was passing through; unsurprisingly, Ferdinand bestowed honours upon him soon afterwards.

    In 1840, Lanna purchased Poříčí Castle and the surrounding land and villages, and – moment when it all comes together alert – assisted in the construction of the Emperor Francis Chain bridge: https://whatsinapraguestreetname.com/2024/11/09/prague-1-day-254-stefanikuv-most/.

    This assistance consisted in the fact that all the material – wood, iron and construction stone – was provided by Lanna. He also built Prague’s first stone embankment (now https://whatsinapraguestreetname.com/2024/09/30/prague-1-day-156-smetanovo-nabrezi-smetana-embankment/).

    Further construction in the 1840s included Prague’s first railway station (Masarykovo – coming up before the Prague 1 series ends) and the Stádlec Suspension Bridge in South Bohemia; Lanna also helped Kladno develop as a centre of coal mining.

    In the 1850s, Lanna would also be contracted to build the Karlín Viaduct (pictured), develop a foundry with a blast furnace in Kladno, and build the Western Railway.

    He also moved the family to Prague and had a house built – it’s mentioned on https://whatsinapraguestreetname.com/2024/09/20/prague-1-day-134-hybernska/.

    However, the underperformance of one of his companies (Prague Ironworks Company) put paid to construction of the railway for the moment; he was forced out of the company’s management in 1862.

    Lanna died of heart failure in Prague in 1866.

    The family business was taken over by his son, Vojtěch Lanna Jr (pictured as a child with his parents), who would co-found the Museum of Decorative Arts in Prague (https://whatsinapraguestreetname.com/2024/10/23/prague-1-day-212-17-listopadu/).

    Lanna Sr has also given his name to a park – a very tranquil, underrated park, if I may – between the street and the Vltava.

  • Originally published on X on 13 June 2024.

    The street is located where the easternmost part of the Old Town walls once stood (see https://whatsinapraguestreetname.com/2024/11/09/prague-1-day-251-hradebni/).

    In the 1700s, the part nearer the river was called Náplavní or Náplavka, both referring to the riverbank.

    The southern part was called Trubní or Rourová – ‘trubka’ and ‘roura’ are both words for ‘pipe’ or ‘tube’, and a pipeline led from here to the Novomlýnská Water Tower (coming up in the next few days).

    In the 1800s, the street was known as Alžbětinská třída, or, colloquially, Eliščina – Elizabeth Avenue, after a spa by the Vltava.

    This name stuck until late 1918, when there was, yes, a revolution. I’m going to be lazy and point you to https://whatsinapraguestreetname.com/2024/09/25/prague-1-day-144-28-rijna/.

    I’ve spent a few Saturday afternoons round these parts lately to take pics for this series, and Revoluční seems to have a disproportionately above-average number of incredibly drunk tourists around that time.

    I assume there’s some pubs nearby with obscene offers on drinks, but if there’s another reason, feel free to tell me.

    If you’re able to ignore them (some of them make it difficult), there are a couple of things worth looking at on the street, such as Palác Batex, which, in interwar Czechoslovakia, was the main meeting place for Prague’s queer community.

    There’s also the functionalist Palác Merkur, designed by Jaroslav Fragner and built between 1934-6. It’s served many functions; in the 1960s, it was a check-in office for Czechoslovak Airlines, which sounds terribly archaic now.

    Generally, however, it’s not unreasonable to categorise Revolućní as somewhere you pass to get from A to B (B often being Letná), rather than somewhere where you dawdle.

  • Originally published on X on 12 June 2024.

    Milan Rastislav Štefánik was born in Košariská, a village nowadays in the Trenčín Region of Slovakia, in 1880.

    He was the son of an evangelical priest, Pavol Štefánik, who raised his children to be interested in Slovak history and culture.

    Leaving his village at nine, he went to school at the Evangelical Lyceum in Bratislava, but had to move because his brother – also studying there – didn’t get good enough grades to continue. He then studied in Sopron and Szarvas (both now in Hungary).

    An outstanding student at all three schools, Štefánik then went to Prague to study civil engineering. During his studies, Štefánik started to take an interest in the progressive ideas of a professor, one T. G. Masaryk (https://whatsinapraguestreetname.com/2024/09/01/prague-2-day-156-masarykovo-nabrezi/).

    In 1900, he started to study astronomy and physics at Charles University; in 1901, he became chairman of Detvan, the Slovak student association.

    In 1903, Vavro Šrobár, a Slovak doctor and politician (https://whatsinapraguestreetname.com/2023/03/02/prague-3-day-167-srobarova/), who had founded Detvan, relaunched his magazine, Hlas (voice). Štefánik helped edit its artistic section.

    He also wrote articles which aimed to inform Czechs of the difficult situation that Magyarisation was creating for Slovaks.

    He somehow found time to graduate during all this (in 1904), and then moved to Paris.

    After a difficult start, Štefánik got a job at the Paris Observatory, a job which enabled him to observe the Moon and Mars from Mont Blanc, and to witness a full eclipse in Alcossebre, near Valencia.

    Later losing his job (the new owner of the Observatory seriously disliked him), a new opportunity came when the French authorities allowed him to go on trips to, amongst other places, Tahiti (where he observed Halley’s Comet).

    He wanted to settle there, but the French authorities had other ideas – they wanted him to travel to Ecuador and the Galapagos. Štefánik’s career was also thwarted by health problems.

    These problems – and a stomach operation – meant that his desire to join the Western Front in WW1 was delayed until 1915, when he qualified as a pilot from the military aviation school in Chartres.

    Seeing the opportunities for emancipation from Austria-Hungary that WW1 could bring, Štefánik tried to create a unit of Czech-Slovak volunteers.

    In September 1915, he was transferred to Serbia, but his time there was cut short by a plane crash and illness; after receiving treatment in Rome, he headed back to Paris.

    Having been introduced to Prime Minister Aristide Briand – and, in December, to Edvard Beneš – Štefánik pushed for the creation of a central representative body of Czechoslovak foreign resistance.

    In February 1916, this led to the founding of what would become the Czechoslovak National Council, where he and Beneš were vice-chairmen (the chair was Masaryk).

    After another bout of ill health, Štefánik went to Italy, then to Russia, then to Romania, to spread the word. The trip to Romania resulted in 1,500 volunteers being found.

    Further success came in early 1917, when the temporary government in Russia gave its support, and also when Štefánik travelled to the USA and gathered another 3,000 volunteers.

    In December 1917, the French government signed the Decree on the Creation of the Czecho-Slovak Army in France. Negotiations with the Italian government were more of a challenge, but also resulted in an agreement being signed in April 1918.

    On 28 October 1918, when Czechoslovakia became independent, Štefánik was its first Minister of War (Šrobár was Minister of Health).

    Much of his work in this period was spent working out what to do with the Czechoslovak legions who were stuck in Siberia, after Russia had become communist and decided that it cared as much about Slavic solidarity as it does in 2024: https://whatsinapraguestreetname.com/2024/09/12/prague-1-day-90-most-legii-legion-bridge/.

    By this point, Štefánik hadn’t been to his motherland since his father’s death in 1913. On 4 May 1919, he boarded an aircraft near Udine in Italy, intending to fly to Slovakia.

    While a definitive account of events is not available, the plane crashed at Ivanka pri Dunaji, near Bratislava. All those on board were killed, including Štefánik, who was 38.

    In Bratislava, an embankment, a bridge and the airport were all named after him. He’s also been seen on various coins, stamps and banknotes (this one is from 1926).

    And these quite fetching 20 koruna coins, issued in 2018, 100 years after Czechoslovak independence.

    We need to talk about the history of the bridge too. Originally, this was the site of the Emperor Franz Joseph I Bridge, built between 1865 and 1868. It was promptly renamed Štefánikův most upon Štefánik’s death in 1919.

    The bridge was dismantled in 1946/7, and replaced by the current bridge between 1949 and 1951.

    From 1947 until 1997, it was named Švermův most, after Jan Šverma (1901-44), a journalist, communist activist and resistance fighter against the clerical fascist Slovak State.

    A statue which stood on the bridge is now at Olšany Cemetery (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Jan_%C5%A0verma#/media/File:Jan_Sverma_memorial_Olsany_Cemetery_Prague_CZ_052.jpg/2); meanwhile, Jinonice Metro Station, on the yellow line, was also known as Švermova when it opened in 1988.

  • Originally published on X on 11 June 2024.

    This guy again (this street is ‘behind’ the church): https://whatsinapraguestreetname.com/2024/11/05/prague-1-day-245-hastalske-namesti/.

    Wherever Castulus is watching this from right now, I hope it makes him happy knowing that, although he’s only got Wikipedia pages in 14 languages (cf. 123 for St Peter), he has *four* streets named after him round here.

    Bonus material: Za Haštalem is home to Dům Řásnovka, and should arguably be called Řásnovka instead of the street that actually is: https://whatsinapraguestreetname.com/2024/11/07/prague-1-day-247-rasnovka/.

  • Originally published on X on 10 June 2024.

    A quick one today: K Haštalu leads to the Church of Svatý Haštal, or Castulus, which I covered here: https://whatsinapraguestreetname.com/2024/11/05/prague-1-day-245-hastalske-namesti/.

    Some of Castulus’ relics are in the church; if you want to see more, you may wish to head to St Martin’s Church (officially named after ‘St. Martin und Kastulus’, but often abbreviated at Castulus’ expense) in Landshut, south-east Bavaria.

  • Originally published on X on 9 June 2024.

    Soběslav I, Duke of Bohemia from 1125 to 1140 (https://whatsinapraguestreetname.com/2024/08/24/prague-2-day-96-sobeslavova/), started the process of fortifying Prague (‘hradby’ are fortifications).

    However, the process of fortifying the Old Town (and Malá Strana) really got going during the rule of Václav I (1230-1235, and, unlike Soběslav, as King), and would continue under his successors, Přemysl Otakar II (1253-1278) and Václav II (1278-1305).

    And Hradební would have been where the easternmost fortifications were.

    That’s pretty much the entire story, so let’s take a look at where the Old Town fortifications had gates (slash shamelessly plug a few older threads).

    Můstek is named after a bridge which led from Havelské město to whatever was there before the New Town appeared in 1348 (i.e. fields). At the end of the bridge was a gate into the Old Town, of which Havelské město was/is part: https://whatsinapraguestreetname.com/2024/10/08/prague-1-day-175-havelska/.

    Another gate led to Kutná Hora, and was therefore called Horská. It decayed after the New Town was founded, but you’re quite likely to recognise the gate tower which sprung up nearby in the 15th century: https://whatsinapraguestreetname.com/2024/10/10/prague-1-day-181-u-prasne-brany/.

    Koňská brána – The Horse Gate – stood at the top of the Horse Market, but was ultimate destroyed to make way for the National Museum. You’re even more likely to know the Horse Market than you are the Power Gate Tower: https://whatsinapraguestreetname.com/2024/09/17/prague-1-day-123-vaclavske-namesti/.

    Apparently, there was *another* Svatohavelská gate which was destroyed in 1874 to make way for Senovážné náměstí: https://whatsinapraguestreetname.com/2024/09/19/prague-1-day-132-senovazne-namesti/.

    Slepá brána (Blind Gate) was another victim of the 1874 destructions, and was located here: https://whatsinapraguestreetname.com/2024/08/31/prague-2-day-134-jecna/.

    And Brána svatého Štěpána (St Stephen’s Gate) was located here: https://whatsinapraguestreetname.com/2024/09/28/prague-1-day-150-bartolomejska/.

    Whereas Brána svatého Valentina (St Valentine’s Gate) was here: https://whatsinapraguestreetname.com/2024/10/20/prague-1-day-206-kaprova/.

    And the Zderaz Gate (located on https://whatsinapraguestreetname.com/2024/09/28/prague-1-day-149-na-perstyne/.

    There’s also the Poříčská brána, but I can’t link to anything as it’s in the thirtysomething streets that I haven’t written about yet.) was where John of Luxembourg entered Prague in 1310.

    Like many streets that are near main roads, Hradební has the misfortune of featuring the backends of buildings rather than the more interesting front parts. As an example, Palác Merkur looks like this from here and will be covered more in a few days’ time.

    But Hradební does feature some quite well-situated halls of residence for the Academy of Performing Arts in Prague (Akademie múzických umění v Praze; AMU).

    As plugging old threads is clearly my thing today, their headquarters have an even better location: https://whatsinapraguestreetname.com/2024/09/08/prague-1-day-38-malostranske-namesti/.

  • Originally published on X on 8 June 2024.

    In the 1100s, there was already a settlement round here, named Újezd and centered around today’s Church of St Castulus (https://whatsinapraguestreetname.com/2024/11/05/prague-1-day-245-hastalske-namesti/).

    When the Convent of Saint Agnes was built in 1231 (https://whatsinapraguestreetname.com/2024/11/05/prague-1-day-243-anezska/), the district started to grow.

    The order residing here was originally inspired by the Order of Friars Minor, founded by St Francis of Assisi in 1209 so, one of the first buildings to be created was the Church of St Francis of Assisi (to the right in this picture). The district became known as Na Františku.

    The church was possibly the first Gothic building in the whole of Bohemia; however, when the entire monastery complex was renovated, starting in 1978, the church was the last building to be done, in 1986.

    Na Františku is also a good place to view some other buildings which have been covered in recent days, such as the Church of Saints Simon and Jude (https://whatsinapraguestreetname.com/2024/11/05/prague-1-day-244-u-milosrdnych/).

    And the Na Františku Hospital.

    And then we have the Ministry of Industry and Trade, constructed from 1928 onwards on what was, until that point, a neglected plot of land. The design was by Josef Fanta, who was also responsible for Prague’s main train station (https://whatsinapraguestreetname.com/2023/12/25/prague-2-day-9-wilsonova/).

    The sculptures on the façade, just in front of the glass dome, represent Industry, Trade, Crafts and Navigation.

    On the western side (formerly the entrance to the Patent Office), the statues symbolise Mathematics, Physics, Chemistry and Engineering.

    While those on the eastern side symbolise Enterprise, Ingenuity, Perseverance and Truthfulness, and the statues of children on each side represent Trade and Industry.

    These are just some of the 120+ statues on the building, without taking into account all the other elements.

    I feel like people don’t mention what an incredible building this is often enough.

  • Originally published on X on 7 June 2024.

    A street with a name, but without a sign.

    Malá Klášterní translate as ‘Little Convent Street’, so let me take you back to here: https://whatsinapraguestreetname.com/2024/11/05/prague-1-day-243-anezska/.

    But what the street (all 30 metres of it) lacks in street signs, it makes up for in open spaces, specifically Zahrada za svatyněmi (‘The Garden behind the sanctuaries’), which was renovated in 2016.

    On the one side, you’ve got a decent view of the convent (and basically the entire ‘street’).

    On the other, you’ve got excellent views of both the Church of St Salvator and the Ministry of Industry and Trade.

    The park is also home to some statues whose modernity contrasts strongly with the surroundings. For example, here’s Buben (Drum) by Čestmír Suška (2001) and Zavěšené břemeno (Suspended burden) by Aleš Veselý (1968).

    As well as Pád II (The Fall II) by Stanislav Kolíbal (1968) and Šikmý průřez šikmou osou (Oblique cross-section with an oblique axis – so, even less catchy in English), again by Aleš Veselý and created between 1992 and 2009.

    Meanwhile, nearer to the street itself, you’ve got Černobílá plastika (Black and white sculpture) and Červená plastika (Red sculpture), both made by Karel Malich in the 1960s.

    But, heading a bit further south, I imagine most people will be most struck by Podobenství s Lebkou (Parable With Skull), created in 1993 by Jaroslav Róna, who also created the famous Franz Kafka statue in Josefov.

    Recently moved over to the convent area from Prague Castle, it depicts a beggar weighed down by a large skull. It probably stands out more here than it did at the Castle, and its new location means you no longer have to pay to see it.

  • Originally published on X on 6 June 2024.

    Quick one today: a ‘klášter’ is a monastery, convent, nunnery or cloister, and this convent was already discussed a few days ago: https://whatsinapraguestreetname.com/2024/11/05/prague-1-day-243-anezska/.

    The church that has its address on Klášterská is the Church of St Salvator (Christ the Saviour), opened in 1611 (and the garden that’s just out of shot is what we’ll be talking about tomorrow).

    And across from that, you’ve got more impressive views of the Ministry of Industry and Trade (and that we’ll be talking about a bit more in two days’ time).

  • Originally published on X on 5 June 2024.

    Jan Řásný z Řásnova was, in the 17th century, the hetman of Strahov Monastery (which is on the other side of the river, but got covered on https://whatsinapraguestreetname.com/2024/09/08/prague-1-day-30-strahovske-nadvori-strahov-courtyard/).

    I’ll admit to not being entirely sure what a ‘hetman’ is when we’re dealing with a monastery – back in the day, ‘hetman/hejtman’ meant ‘military commander’; nowadays it’s a regional governor, and I’m assuming Strahov had something between the two.

    Anyway, between 1667 and 1679, Mr Ř z Ř bought some land round here and had a house built, called, appropriately, dům Řásnovka.

    I would put a picture of it here, but, in news that may have evaded the people who gave Řásnovka its current name in 1894, it’s actually on a different street (those who really want the photo are welcome to pop in on day 253).

    What you do get on Řásnovka are some pretty fine views of the back of the Ministry of Industry and Trade (AKA the building you find yourself staring at when you’re watching the sun set in the Letná beer garden).

    Opposite, at number 8, there’s a late (1941-50) functionalist office building by František Marek. It’s currently used by the Technical Administration of Communications of the Capital City of Prague (TSK HMP).

    Next to that, there’s a pretty fine oak tree, planted in 1850, and the only memorial oak in the Old Town.

    As you walk westwards, Řásnovka then turns into what feels like an entirely different street, and starts heading south-west.

  • Originally posted on X on 4 June 2024.

    Same story as yesterday: https://whatsinapraguestreetname.com/2024/11/05/prague-1-day-245-hastalske-namesti/; this is what the church looks like from here.

    The square was actually part of this street until 1928.

    It was at number 26 that Max Brod, Kafka’s closest friend, was born (i.e. I missed a trick by not posting this one yesterday, the 100th anniversary of Kafka’s death).

    The street also features U Zlatého stromu (https://whatsinapraguestreetname.com/2024/11/01/prague-1-day-233-dlouha/), but in the least scenic way possible.

    But you can then go and wash down your disappointment with the architecture at La Degustation (number 18), which has a Michelin star: https://ladegustation.cz/en

  • Originally published on X on 3 June 2024.

    Svatý Haštal is Saint Castulus, chamberlain to Emperor Diocletian.

    He sheltered Christians in his home, converted many people to Christianity, and also arranged for people to be baptised by Pope Caius.

    He was thanked for this by being being buried alive in a sandpit in 286. His wife, Irene of Rome, who tended to Saint Sebastian (as pictured), would be martyred two years later.

    An archaeological survey carried out in the 1990s revealed remnants of a church building here from the 1100s, although the first mention in writing (by Václav I) dates from 1234.

    A new, Gothic church was built in the 1300s; that, too, was replaced by a Romanesque church (built between 1375 and 1399).

    During the Hussite wars, the church was damaged not only by fighting, but also by floods; it remained Hussite until 1624, when it was handed over to the Catholics.

    The church burned down in a fire in 1689, which was followed by five years of reconstruction; its current interior dates from 1730 onwards, with a major renovation taking place in 1883.

    These insides include the supposed remains of Saint Castulus, brought to Prague and donated to the church by Charles IV.

    I would ask how the remains survived the Hussites, flooding and fire, but then I guess the Lord works in mysterious ways.

    The street was originally called ‘U starého Haštala’ (Old Castulus), and then Haštalský plácek, before receiving its current name in 1926.

    Castulus, meanwhile, is the patron saint of shepherds, and should be invoked when you’re worried about lightning, wildfires, drowning, cowherds, having your horse stolen, or erysipelas, a form of cellulitis.

  • Originally published on X on 2 June 2024.

    Originally, the street was known either as U svatého Kříže – after a now-defunct church of the Holy Cross – or as U svaté Anežky (see yesterday: https://whatsinapraguestreetname.com/2024/11/05/prague-1-day-243-anezska/).

    Around 1350, a hospital was built here, founded by one Bohuslav z Olbramovic, and completed at the instigation of Arnošt from Pardubice, the first Archbishop of Prague.

    He consecrated the hospital’s chapel – Kaple svatého Šimona a Judy / the Chapel of Sts. Simon and Jude – in 1354.

    In 1615, the chapel was purchased by Václav Vilém z Roupova, a Czech noble and one of the leaders of the anti-Habsburg rising in 1618-20 (who fled afterwards and avoided execution).

    He initiated the conversion of the chapel into a church for the choir of the Church of the Brethren, but the vault collapsed in 1617, and, after consecration in 1620, time wasn’t exactly on the non-Catholics’ side.

    The site was taken over by the Order of Merciful Brothers – Řád milosrdných bratří – at the end of 1620, and they set about building a monastery.

    The order – officially known as the Hospitaller Order of the Brothers of Saint John of God (and colloquially in Italian as the Fatebenefratelli – ‘Do-good brothers’) – had been founded in Italy 1572 by the Portuguese soldier turned healthcare worker, João de Deus.

    The Monastery of the Merciful Brothers and the new monastery church of Saints Simon and Jude were ready by about 1653; they underwent Baroque reconstruction in the early 1700s.

    Meanwhile, the order increased the capacity of the hospital – by 1703, it had an extra floor and could accommodate almost 90 patients. It continued to grow in importance as it became a branch of Prague University’s Faculty of Medicine.

    In the 19th century, Franz Joseph II supported the hospital, which eventually had capacity for 200 patients, making it the largest hospital in Bohemia.

    The front of the hospital was completed in 1926.

    Nowadays, it’s the most important Czech institution for the treatment of breast cancer, and its orthopaedic department is frequently used by top athletes. The hospital treats over 80,000 people annually.

    Back to Simon and Jude: a plaque on the south side of the church says that both Joseph Haydn and Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart played its organ when they visited Prague.

    Inevitably, the Merciful Brothers were thrown out by the Communists in 1950; nowadays, the church is often the site of concerts by the Prague Symphony Orchestra: https://www.fok.cz/en/church-st-simon-and-st-jude.

  • Originally published on X on 1 June 2024.

    Přemysl Otakar I was Duke of Bohemia from 1192 to 1193, and again from 1197 to 1198. In the latter year, he became the third King of Bohemia, and would stay as such until 1230.

    He was the first ruler of Bohemia who inherited the title of King for his children.

    And there were quite a few of these children – thirteen in total, including a future king (Václav I), and youngest child, Anežka (Agnes), who was born around 1211.

    From the age of three, Anežka was raised in convents, first in Bohemia and later in Austria, when her father arranged for her to marry Henry VII of Germany.

    When this plan failed, Anežka was proposed to by Frederick II, Holy Roman Emperor. However, when Otakar I died in 1230, she decided that she wasn’t going to get married.

    In 1209, Francis of Assisi (pictured on Charles Bridge: https://whatsinapraguestreetname.com/2024/09/09/prague-1-day-68-karluv-most-charles-bridge/) had founded the Order of Friars Minor (or the Franciscans), with an emphasis on missionary work and teaching.

    A follower, Chiara Offreduccio, or Clare of Assisi, then founded the Order of Poor Ladies, or the Poor Clares, which followed a rule of strict poverty. The order devoted itself to caring for the sick.

    The first follower of the Poor Clares in Bohemia was Alžběta Durynská, or Elizabeth of Hungary (1207-31), who was also Anežka’s cousin.

    The order needed a convent in Prague, and this was built quite quickly – by 1234, it had already been consecrated, and Anežka entered the order on 25 March. She had her own chapel within the complex.

    When Václav I – who had made a significant financial contribution to the construction – died in 1253, he was buried here, as his wife, Kunigunde of Hohenstaufen, had been in 1248: https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Tomb_of_Wenceslaus_I_of_Bohemia#/media/File:Ane%C5%BEsk%C3%BD_kl%C3%A1%C5%A1ter,_Star%C3%A9_M%C4%9Bsto_(Praha),_Hlavn%C3%AD_m%C4%9Bsto_Praha_12.jpg

    After his death, Anežka and her nephew, Přemysl Otakar II, began construction of a mausoleum. The chapel, meanwhile, became the most important repository of relics in Bohemia.

    Anežka died in 1282, and her role was taken over by Kunhuta, the teenage daughter of Přemysl Otakar II, but the convent became less of a priority for the royal family, not getting a proper reconstruction until the reign of Charles IV.

    When the Habsburgs came into power, they moved Dominicans into the convent, although the Poor Clares moved back in later in the 1600s.

    The convent was closed in 1782.

    The building has been owned by the National Gallery since 1963; it hosts a permanent exhibition of Medieval Art in Bohemia and Central Europe.

    Anežská is also home to what claims to be the smallest house in Prague, built in 1853, and – this will automatically make the house seem way less cute – used as a brothel for forty years until 1922.

  • Originally published on X on 31 May 2024.

    For this one, we’ve got to start with a writer, Jaroslav Fogler, who was born on Benátská (https://whatsinapraguestreetname.com/2024/08/28/prague-2-day-127-benatska/) in 1907, although the family moved out of Prague shortly afterwards.

    After his father’s death in 1914, he moved back to Prague with his mother, living on Korunní (https://whatsinapraguestreetname.com/2023/12/23/prague-3-day-187-korunni/).

    From 1923, he was involved in the scout movement; in 1925, he led a scout camp, and then became leader of a scouting group in Prague (he would stay in that position for sixty years).

    It was also in 1923 that his first short story was published in a scouting magazine. In the 1930s, he became the editor of various youth magazines published by the Melantrich publishing house (https://whatsinapraguestreetname.com/2024/10/14/prague-1-day-194-melantrichova/).

    In 1938, he first published a comic strip called Rychlé šípy (The Rapid Arrows). The Arrows were five boys: Mirek, Jarka, Jindra, Červenáček (Red Cap) and Rychlonožka (Speedy) and a dog, Bublina (Bubble).

    The gang would then become the lead characters in a trilogy of novels: Záhada hlavolamu (Mystery of the Puzzle; 1941), Stínadla se bouří (Stinadla is rioting; 1946) and Tajemství Velkého Vonta (The Secrets of Great Vont; 1986).

    And these novels were set in a fictitious district of an unnamed city, which had winding streets and was falling apart slightly despite the constant modernisation of the surrounding districts. Perfect for nighttime adventures, then.

    Stínadla has been translated into English as ‘The Shades’; however, ‘stínat’ means ‘to behead’, so it’s likely that the district’s name came from its past as the site of gallows.

    If you want to get an idea of what Stínadla would’ve looked like, here’s the first episode of a television adaptation of Záhada hlavolamu from 1969:

    Stínadla became so famous that other authors used it in their own works too.

    Fogler died in 1999, having left behind him some of the most loved characters in the history of Czech youth fiction.

    The street, meanwhile, was nameless until 2007, when it was renamed as ‘In Stínadla’ as a tribute to Fogler and his work.

    Looking at this picture, you’ll probably understand why the ‘street’ was nameless for so long; it can be assumed that not one person had to change their ID or business cards as a result of this change.

    I had a major Enid Blyton phase when I was about eight; right now, I’m jealous of the Czech kids who got to have a Rychlé šípy era instead.

    Finally, I was writing for a Eurovision mailing list back in 2007 (mailing list! My goodness), and was unsure how to translate this song from the Czech selection that year. Only took seventeen years to find out (also: a little scary but robbed).

  • Originally published on X on 30 May 2024.

    Around here, we’re near the end (or start) of one of the oldest trade routes between Prague (specifically Old Town Square), Bohemia and Germany.

    Therefore, around the 15th century, the Obecní dvůr (Municipal Court) was built here, as a yard owned by the Municipality of Prague. However, its history isn’t all that well documented, and the first written mention of Obecní dvůr is from the 1700s.

    One historian says it consisted of four farm buildings, shops selling cloth, a brewery, a malthouse and a large garden.

    We can say, with more certainty, that, in the 18th century, it had stables (two of which survive), and was used to store hay, fodder and coal.

    In the 1820s, it was used by fire patrols, although it would be another three decades before Prague had a professional fire department. This, too, was located here (until 1926).

    In the early 20th century, during the rehabilitation of Josefov, a large chunk of the court was demolished, and, from 1926, it was used partially as residences, partially for small businesses.

    It underwent reconstruction in the last decade: https://www.stavbaroku.cz/printDetail.do?Dispatch=ShowDetail&siid=1504.

    U obecního dvora includes Dům U Censorů, which dates back to at least 1403, but was given its current form in 1795. It was, indeed, where censorship of books was carried out.

    It was also once the home of the Austrian mathematician Christian Doppler (1803-53), who was a professor at Prague Polytechnic and described the Doppler effect (which states that the perceived frequency of a wave depends on the source and the observer).

    Meanwhile, next door, we’ve got the birthplace of Josef Mánes (https://whatsinapraguestreetname.com/2024/01/18/prague-2-day-11-manesova/). His father Antonín worked in a studio in U Censorů.

  • Originally published on X on 29 May 2024.

    Until the 14th century, this was known as Starý uhelný trh (Old Coal Market), or Forum carbonum antiquum, after a market which was here but later moved to, yes, Uhelný trh: https://whatsinapraguestreetname.com/2024/09/26/prague-1-day-147-uhelny-trh/.

    After that, it became known as Hrnčířská, thanks to its local craftsmen (a ‘hrnčíř’ is a potter or ceramist).

    Then, from 1824, one part was called Horní Kozí, and the other Dolní Kozí (i.e. there were upper and lower parts). These were renamed as just plain Kozí in 1902, when the street was also widened.

    ‘Kozí’ is the adjective from ‘koza’, which means ‘goat’. The name of the street commemorates a local market where goats were sold (for another animal-based market, see https://whatsinapraguestreetname.com/2024/09/17/prague-1-day-123-vaclavske-namesti/).

    Kozí certainly feels like two different streets glued together (the map above may also suggest this).

    Noteworthy buildings on the street include the headquarters of the Český báňský úřad / Czech Mining Office at number 4, built between 1898 and 1899 based on a design by the architect Antonín Rosenberg.

    While number 7 is the Dům Společenstva pražských stavitelů / House of the Society of Prague Builders, built slightly earlier (1876), based on a design by Josef Schulz.

    Zoom in, and you’ll see busts commemorating Petr Parléř, Matěj Rejsek and Benedikt Rejt, three of Prague’s most important architects.

    Parléř can be thanked for reasonably well-known constructions such as St Vitus Cathedral and Charles Bridge; Rejsek has a street which I discussed way back in our Vinohrady era: https://whatsinapraguestreetname.com/2024/08/19/prague-2-day-76-rejskova/.

    Because we haven’t had any entertaining vocabulary in a while, a ‘kozí bradka’ is a goatee.

  • Originally published on X on 28 May 2024.

    We’re still in ‘we’ve covered this, haven’t we’ territory: https://whatsinapraguestreetname.com/2024/10/12/prague-1-day-189-tynska/.

    So far, we’ve had Týn, Týn Street and, now, Little Týn Street (or Týn Lane, if that’s how you’re feeling).

    But we’re not without things to talk about.  For a start, U Černého jelena (The Black Stag) was also mentioned in the Týnská thread:

    And U Černého slona (The Black Elephant) still has some of its 13th-century elements in the cellar.  From 1909 to 1990, it was a hardware store owned by Eduard Čapek, and then his son Antonín Čapek – the only private hardware store that remained open during communism.

    The street also offers a different (read: less impressive) viewpoint on Kinský Palace (https://whatsinapraguestreetname.com/2024/10/12/prague-1-day-190-staromestske-namesti-old-town-square/).

  • Originally published on X on 27 May 2024.

    When I first drafted my post about Týn / Ungelt (https://whatsinapraguestreetname.com/2024/10/12/prague-1-day-189-tynska/), I didn’t realise that the courtyard is also treated as its own street, and therefore has its own street sign.

    So it was quite nice to pop in and get some proper pictures of Týn, too. Especially of Palác Granovských z Granova / Granovský Palace.

    In 1558, Jakub Granovský z Granova, who was responsible for running the Ungelt, obtained a plot of land from Ferdinand I on one condition: he would oversee the opening and closing of the Ungelt’s gates.

    He promptly set to reconstruction of the Ungelt House – which had stood here for centuries – giving it a Renaissance makeover, with excellent sgraffiti showing Biblical and mythological scenes.

    It belonged to the Granovský family until 1620 (strong intimation: they weren’t Catholics), and later owners divided the palace in two. From 1713, it was used as a mortuary.

    During communism, one floor was used as warehouse space, whereas another was used for teaching purposes. Now owned by the Archbishopric of Prague, it’s part office space, part restaurant.

    In front of the palace, there’s a statue called Den a Noc (Night and Day), a copy of a work from 1911 by Jan Štursa (1880-1925).

    Here are some other pics of Týn, for the sake of completeness. Not quite a hidden gem, but also not quite as packed with people as the places which surrounds it.